Day 6 on the Camino Finisterre / Fisterra / Muxia. (Day 60 of my journey)
Day 1, Leaving Seville on the Via de la Plata.
Day 36, Three days on the Camino Frances
Day 40, 1st Day on Camino Invierno
Day 55, 1st Day on the Camino Finisterre
This is my final day on Camino at the end of this journey of almost two months. It seems like a very long time ago that I strate in Seville.
Today was a long day. I’m not quite sure why I planned it this way, but it’s quite a long day. It’s 28 kilometres from Fisterra to Muxia. Twenty-eight kilometres for me is really right at the upper end of distance in terms of getting sore knees and feet and that type of thing.
And I have had very very painful knees for the last 3 days…
There are some big descents and ascents as well, so this is probably going to be one of the hardest days on my Camino, but it’s the last day.
As it turned out, it was a lovely day of walking. I managed to find a great place in Lires halfway, or just before halfway, a fantastic place to have a second breakfast. It was the only place open!
My first breakfast was in my hotel room that was sardines on pan integral (nice whole meal bread). I find that the sardines and the oil and the bread give me a good kickstart and lots of energy for the morning and it did. So, I left the hotel at 6:30 and by the time I got to Lires at about 10:30, I was certainly ready for something else, and I found a great place for breakfast.
After that it was a fairly steady climb towards Muxia and then a very steep descent down into Muxia. That was the bit that worried me. I was afraid that my knees would give out, but with some very tight strapping on my knees and some painkillers, that was all great. Then after I checked-in in Muxia I went for a walk out to the Chapel on the Rocks because that’s a great place to finish it for me, you know, and it was.
There was a lot of tour buses there, unfortunately, and a lot of noisy tourists, but I found some space on the rocks to reflect and think about my journey. I was just filled with a sense of gratitude. Gratitude for those who had helped me undertake this journey, those at home, and at work who were stepping up to cover for me while I was away. A deep sense of gratitude for the people I met along the way, locals and other pilgrims, and a strong sense of contentment, but it was now over. It was now time to go home and put into practice what I’ve learned on this Camino. There was a huge lesson on this Camino.
Just before sunset, which is at 10:00 PM tonight, I walked back out to the little Chapel on the Rocks, just north of Muxia. There, like a couple of dozen pagan sun worshippers, pilgrims were dotted across the rocks as they sat watching the final limits of daylight as the sun went down and the sun went down for the last time on their pilgrimage. This is a fitting enclosure for my Camino.
Finally, if you’ve read this blog, you know it’s called Robs Camino. But the subtitle is ‘searching for Santiago’.
I think this time I found what I was searching for and the big realisation for me was that I don’t need to come back walking Caminos all the time searching for answers; the answers are back home. The very strong realisation that I had on this Camino about two weeks ago was that joy and happiness in life comes from those around us. I’ll expand on that a little bit more on one of the YouTube videos, but that realization was very strong and I don’t need to come on Camino all the time to find that.
I now understand that I need to bring that with me back home. So, it’s been an incredible journey, about 1,200 kilometres, 60 days, a long way. I’m not sure if I ever thought I would make it, but it’s been a fantastic journey. But I really need to go home now. 🙂
In Muxia I stayed at Apartments Costa Da Morte Muxia. Very nice studio apartment overlooking the Harbour.
And right outside, the bus stop, where I caught the Bus to Santiago early the next morning.
Do watch the video below, as towards the end I explain what I learned on this Camino.
I really enjoyed reading about this ambitious and successful Camino, Rob. Thanks for taking us along with you!
Glad you enjoyed it Anne. It was a long one. For me at least! But as with all Caminos, long or short, a wonderful experience.
That you for the videos of your journey. I plan to do the Invierno end September/October, so this was very helpful.
You have a good eye for the beauty around, and took some wonderful pictures for us to enjoy.
I’m sure you’ll love it! Buen Camino
Hi there,
I have a few questions regarding my solo trekking on the Camino VĂa de la Plata from October to November. Could you kindly share your experiences with me? You can respond via email.
1. Where can I obtain the correct GPX file for the route (from Sevilla to Astorga, then joining Camino FrancĂ©s, and finally Camino de Fisterra y MuxĂa)?
P.S. What do you think of my route plan? Do you have any suggestions for the route? (My main considerations are safety, scenic beauty, and avoiding noise).
2. Is it considered safe for a woman to trek alone on this route?
3. Regarding accommodations for the night, could you recommend specific points and also advise on places to avoid?
4. Which app would you suggest for finding good night accommodations?
5. Is it necessary to carry a sleeping bag?
6. Are there wolves along the route?
7. Can I drink tap water directly? Or is it recommended to bring a water filter?
8. Are there any towns or places en route where you would recommend spending more time?
9. Are there any local dishes you would recommend trying, and are there places suitable for participating in yoga?
10. Do you have any other suggestions for me?
Thank you in advance for your assistance.
Best regards,
J
That’s a big list! Instead of answering via email, I’ll do a video in the next week or so. That way others may also get some value from your questions.
But here is a quick answer!
1. Where can I obtain the correct GPX file for the route (from Sevilla to Astorga, then joining Camino FrancĂ©s, and finally Camino de Fisterra y MuxĂa)?
P.S. What do you think of my route plan? Do you have any suggestions for the route? (My main considerations are safety, scenic beauty, and avoiding noise).
Sounds like a good route. you can download gps tracks from Gronze.com and read them using maps.me.
2. Is it considered safe for a woman to trek alone on this route?
As safe as any route I think. Have you watched this video? https://youtu.be/ksyPpAfoR58
I met about 20 other Pilgrims on the vdlp. maybe 7 of those were women. 6 were walking alone. Aged maybe 25-65.
3. Regarding accommodations for the night, could you recommend specific points and also advise on places to avoid?
Hard to recommend, as we all have different preferences in terms of type of accomodation, budget etc. I was happy with all the places I stayed.
4. Which app would you suggest for finding good night accommodations?
Gronze.com easy to use, more up to date than many ‘guides’. also has feedback comments.
5. Is it necessary to carry a sleeping bag?
Depending what type of accommodation you are using. Albergue v private rooms. I took a lightweight sleeping bag.
6. Are there wolves along the route?
No. But lots of farm dogs that bark if you come too close. Also lots of cats, pigs, sheep, cows…..
7. Can I drink tap water directly? Or is it recommended to bring a water filter?
Tap water in Spain is generally good quality. That’s all I drink. I top up my bottles from the tap.
8. Are there any towns or places en route where you would recommend spending more time?
Depends what you like to see, and also when you ‘feel’ you need a rest. I took days off in Merida, Salamana, and Zamora.
9. Are there any local dishes you would recommend trying, and are there places suitable for participating in yoga?
Food choices are often a case of what is available. Often not much choice, if any. I tried some ‘interesting’ things….
10. Do you have any other suggestions for me?
Don’t over plan. Relax. Only book one or two days ahead, if at all. Don’t ‘expect’ to find food and water during the day, unless you are passing a larger village/town. (rare) Pack light! Carry plenty of water.
Thank you for your prompt response and sharing.
Regarding ‘you can download GPS tracks from Gronze.com and read them using maps.me,’ do you mean this one?
https://www.gronze.com/gronze-maps
I didn’t find the place to download GPS.
No. Easier than that.
Go to Gronze.com
If you are using Chrome browser it will auto translate.
Look at the top menu. Under ‘Caminos/Roads’ select the Camino you will walk.
Select via de la plata, or ‘todos los caminos/all the ways
Select your Camino from the map.
You now see a list of stages
Click on the stage you are walking. for example day 1.
You will see from the top.
A text summary of the route.
A clickable map of the route.
A stage profile (click the cross)
A list of accomodation by town/village (click on each one for details)
Under the lsi of accommodation are three buttons.
ROUTE. TO THE PARROT (more text details of the route) PHOTOS (of the route)
Click on ROUTE. It just provides a different page view.
Now go up the page to the map.
Below the map you will see a text link ‘download the track’
Click that link. A pop up shows the file is downloaded. and has the option OPEN.
Click OPEN, and select which app you want to read the track in…….
Sounds complicated but very easy once you do it.
NOTE. You have to register (free) to download the tracks.
I’ll make a video on this process soon.
Thanks for sharing, I appreciate it.