No Room at the Inn on the Camino de Santiago

What if I Can’t Find a Bed on Camino?

It’s a very common concern for those walking their first Camino.  And understandably.

There seems to be three ‘approaches to Camino accommodation.

1. Book with a Camino Tour Company.  This seems to provide a simple solution, but is not one I would ever use.  It’s not hard to book your own accommodation, it’s likely to at least double your costs, and worst of all, it can be so inflexible as to ruin your Camino.
2. Book a Short Bit Ahead.  This is me.  I book my first 2 or 3 nights, based on some some short easy stages as a ‘warm up’.  Then once I am in a rhythm, I book one night ahead.  It gives me all the flexibility that I need.
3. Wing It.   Don’t book anything and just ‘wing it’.  Stop when you feel you want to and look for a place to stay.  And depending on the route and time of year, this can work just fine.  I did this a few times on my last Camino.

But what if?  What if it all goes wrong?

There are always options.  Get a bus or taxi to another village.  Go with an alternative style of accommodation.

Most of the stories that seem to send fear amongst newbie Pilgrims are I believe, not related to not being able to find a bed.  But rather that people could not find the type of accommodation they wanted, in the exact location they wanted, at the price they wanted.   I’m a relative Newbie.  But in 3,000 kms of Caminos, I have never had an issue in getting a bed.   OK, in 2018, Zubiri on the Camino Frances ( a known choke point) was totally booked out, and some people had to bus to Pamplona.  But that is the only time I can think of.

So here is a funny and quite typical Camino Story.

No Bed for Hans on the Camino

I was walking the Via de a Plata (VdlP).  My first of the more remote Caminos and I was loving it.

The landscapes, the solitude, it was just what I needed.  Not many Pilgrims walk the VdlP.  And I think there were about 15 Pilgrims walking the same stages as me.   That is, on any one day, there might have been 10-15 Pilgrims walking to the same place as me.

So accommodation was not really a problem.       There was a great range of accommodation types and the only challenge was early in the walk, as Semana Santa was still underway. (Easter Celebrations).  Accommodation gets booked out due to family reunions etc.

At this stage I was walking for a few days, with a delightful couple I had met.  We’ll call them John and Susan. Both veterans of many Caminos and great people to be with.  A huge plus was that Susan spoke almost fluent Spanish.  (Not much English is spoken along the VdlP)

We had just arrived in Galisteo, a lovely old walled town.  There were not many accommodation options but we had called the day before to book a couple of rooms at a ‘Pension’.  There was one Albergue with 8 beds. and our Pension, with 5 rooms.    (and there are 10-15 Pilgrims on our stage at a guess)  After a few Albergue nights, we were looking forward to staying in the Pension.  Private rooms, a washing machine, a good nights sleep without disruption.  And a bakery next door!

On the way into the town, was a bar  / cafe that was open for lunch.  So once we had checked in, we went back there for lunch.  This also put us on the way into town, so we would see any other Pilgrims arriving.  I think by the time we got there and ordered drinks there were 8 of us.  People we had already met, or at least faces we knew.

Then Hans arrived.  Tired, very sweaty, but obviously loving every minute.  Always had a smile on his face! Hans joined us for lunch of course.

At some stage, the conversation then went like this:

“Where are you staying Hans”?

“Oh, I don’t know yet”……..

A few glances passed across the table. 

“Jenny, you’re staying at the Albergue.  Do they have beds left”?

“No………it’s full”

“That’s OK Hans, we are staying at the pension and I’m sure they have a room.  Come back with us after lunch”

So now 4, with Hans, we headed back to the Pension after lunch.   There was nobody there, so Susan called the owner to organise a room for Hans.

At the end of the call she looked worried.

“They are full Hans.  And there is nowhere else to stay”

Hans declared he would just walk to the next town 10 kms further on.  And thanked us for trying to help him out.

Glances passed between John, Susan and I.  And I knew exactly what they were thinking but they were far too polite to mention it.

So of course I said………….

“Hans, there are two beds in my room.  You’re welcome to join me”.

And all was well.

I didn’t get a great nights sleep as I think Hans is on the Dutch National Snoring Team.  But hey!   Pilgrims look after each other and he was a lovely guy……..

We had a good laugh about it.

So the moral of the story is, don’t worry too much about finding a bed.

Do your planning.   Think ahead.  But if all else fails, something will turn up.  No one gets left behind.

If the Via de la Plata route is of interest to you, there is a daily VdlP Blog here.